![]() The simple relays are much much smaller and don't generate anything near the diode isolator's losses.Ĭlick to expand.Perhaps we're suffering "looseness of terms", but the Sure Power page certainly calls itself Isolator instructions across the top. ![]() that's because it gets hot due to the power loss through the diodes. What you're picturing (and what he should really have) is something like one of Blue Seas' Automatic Charging Relays. (the "DE" terminal is where you tell the isolator that the alternator is running, but it's an optional connection) (his unit uses the DE terminal for "Delcotron" alternators, which the pdf file i referenced also covers.) (are your diodes just for arc suppression?)įor your drawing to be useful, how do you equate/convert his "A, DE, B1, B2" to your A, C, DF? Your re-twiddled version of my 2nd drawing is what my 3rd drawing is trying to show. (in fact, i sincerely thank you for running this experiment )Ĭlick to expand.which is actually what i thought he was doing (with the odd tweak of tying to the alternator instead of the battery post) before he posted his photo of the instructions (and the model name/number). Here is the service manual's view of it:įootnote: i didn't ever think you'd messed up the alternator, merely loosened (or something similar) the DF control lead. So: instead of the semiconductor isolator, get a "real relay" battery separator, and do what the third section of the diagram shows. if the ECU sees less turbo output than it's expecting, it stops trying to use it and turns on the ECU light (sometimes). ((that thesis is making a guess about the internal "smarts" of the IC, but the logic is similar to what happens with the turbo. The Isolator's diodes subtract some of the alternator's voltage output, and the Instrument Cluster (or ECU) notice that and declare a fault (by lighting the alternator light). it activates the DF and expects *specific* behavior by the alternator. ![]() What i think is really happening is that the Instrument Cluster (which controls the DF lead) "knows" the Alternator too well. Middle section is what (i think) you did.īottom section is how it should be done (see footnote). Here Be Drawing: Top section is "unmodified Sprinter", The Sprinter does not like having the alternator separated from the starter battery by the isolator diode's forward voltage drop (and possibly its blockage of reverse current). You need to use a relay battery separator. the T1N and NCV3 alternators have different control mechanisms) is not compatible with a diode isolator. Click to expand.So the Sprinter (they don't mention which years. ![]()
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